Trade Secrets

From The American Horologist and Jeweler magazine, February, 1942

Trade Secrets

What are they, how do they benefit the holder, how do they react toward the attitude of the apprentice?

During the past years it was the custom of the watchmaker to cloud his craft in a cloak of secrecy. Even the apprentice under his direction could never be sure that he had acquired more than a working knowledge with which to face the world in his efforts to earn a living.

Most young apprentices had to be satisfied with just such information as the master chose to give them, some had the initiative and courage to get the masters secrets in any manner at hand, mostly by closely watching him when he, the master, did not know of the watchful attitude of the apprentice. Some apprentices managed to get certain information from the master by adroit questioning, feigning and ignorance that was quite an intelligent demonstration. It is commendable that in more recent years there has been an inclination to divulge these so-called trade secrets and rather to encourage students to inquire into the reasons and the whys of things horological.

The writer had the pleasure of being employed by a jeweler in Columbus, Ohio, for some time and as a new year tribute I claim this man is one of the fairest and squarest employers that ever established a business, he gave me much of his valuable time in correcting faults that J had fallen heir to in former connections and I have greatly profited by this employers good will and keen interest.

One of the items that has been under controversy for these many years has been the subject of cleaning watches; during my apprenticeship. I was taught that benzine was the only reliable watch cleaner, followed by the usual "dunking" in alcohol and endless brushing. Later on material houses "developed" cleaning solutions of their own and, properly labelled as a, cleaning solution was sold to watchmakers at $3.00 per gallon.

I am offering the following watch cleaning solution formula for the benefit of those watchmakers who have been unable to get a satisfactory solution, no doubt there are many in the craft who already have this formula but there are many of the newer men just coming along now that will find the solution beneficial in their work:

Oleic Acid _________________________2 oz.
Acetone __________________________.4 oz.
Ammonia., 28% ____________________18 oz.
Water, distilled, to make one gallon.

This solution will not tarnish or cause rust on any part of the steel work in watches, however, it is best to wash the parts immediately in cold water, direct from the faucet, and then immerse in alcohol to remove any water that may remain hidden in crevices-then dry and assemble.

After a light buffing of cases and jewelry, then a wash off in the above solution one will be astonished at the results; discolorations and stains are removed quickly after only a light brushing in this solution.

I am indebted to my former employer, Leland M. Swain, of Columbus, Ohio, for this formula.
Prices for this solution are as variable as the weather, it all depends upon the section where one may happen to be employed; for instance. one city has a fixed price of 80 cents per gallon, not so far distant another city charges $1.50, and I know of others that charge $1.00 and still another at $1.25.
I fail to see the reason for such variation since the cost of the chemicals when purchased in pound packages (standard weight designation by the largest chemical houses) would be approximately one-fourth the retail price of the lowest gallon charge stated above. 

The logical solution to the excessive cost would be for those jewelers employing several watchmakers to purchase the chemicals in bulk from a chemical distributor and mix the solutions in gallon lots, in their work rooms; for example, stores employing two active bench men should purchase the oleic acid and acetone in 10 pound containers and the ammonia in case lot of 10 nine pound bottles, the distilled water could be purchased from the local ice company in 5 gallon bottles or 10 gallon carboys, the initial cost per gallon of the solution would be greatly reduced and would amount to something like 40 cents per gallon. (Including time and glassware used in measuring and storage).

At the present time I am using the following system -

Tray No. l - Watch cleaning solution.
Tray No.2 - Naphtha gas.
Tray No.3 - Carbon tetrachloride.
Tray No.4 - Carbon tetrachloride. 

When solution in tray No.3 gets to the point where I think it should be changed I use this solution for washing off cases and jewelry after buffing and washing in solution No. 1, however, I use separate dishes for jewelry and use the discarded solutions for watch cleaning for this purpose. I do not use alcohol very often and then only for cases where I doubt the efficiency of the other solutions in the final washing and drying. I don't recall that I have had a single failure of sleeves or springs from rust traceable to the use of any of these solutions.

I do use alcohol as a precautionary measure on such cases as might harbor a trace of water in some hidden crevice.

If this formula benefits some member of the craft I will be amply repaid for the time and effort in writing it up as well as in detailing my experiences and observations from the use of the formula. 

Finer Results at a Saving

From The American Horologist magazine, May 1940

Finer Results at a Saving 

Watchmakers report savings and finer results after using new L & R Waterless NOFOME Watch Cleaning Solution.

Just a month ago in an extensive national advertising campaign, L & R introduced, for the first time, a waterless non-foaming watch cleaning solution known as L & R Waterless NOFOME.

Already, according to L & R. watchmakers report that the superior cleaning action of the new solution is producing results that before hardly seemed possible - really removing every known kind of movement muck, leaving the parts bright and sparkling - clean. In addition, they are bearing out the manufacturers claim that Waterless NOFOME increases the life of their rinse, because it dissolves - does not float or settle in the rinse.

L & R Waterless NOFOME is carried by every major distributor of watch materials and supplies from coast to coast. 

Information Please!

From The American Horologist magazine, April 1945

Information Please!
Directed by 
W. H. Samelius, Chairman
Science of Horology and Technical Board

JHN - You say you have been using water as a first rinse in cleaning machine and wonder if any harm might result and what the advantage might be?

Ans: I can see no harm in using water for the first rinse as that will remove the cleaning solution. Then by following with the first and second rinse of naphtha, all water will be removed and drying accomplished without danger of rust. The advantages I see in this would be that you would not have to use such an amount of rinse and the rinsing fluid will remain cleaner for a longer period of time. In any case, rinsing in water the first time would be cheaper than rinsing in regular solution.

]DW: No. I - How is the distance between the end stones and hole jewels measured so as to get an accurate measurement of the oil space.

No. 2 - How can I find correct width of mainspring for any given barrel if the broken sample is missing or incorrect?

No.3 - How can the banking be opened or closed on cheap watches that do not have banking screws without bending the pins?

Ans: I - The watch manufacturers gauge the distance that the jewels are set below the surface of the setting by using a depth gauge. This; is a very fine instrument and measures to one ten thousandth inch, an instrument that the average watchmaker could hardly afford to enjoy. When the watchmaker at the bench sets a balance or cap jewel, the surplus material is cut away until the jewel is approximately .001 inch below the surface of the setting and can be checked very close by eye measurement by laying a straight edge across the setting and observing the space between the straight edge and the top of the jewel. For comparison. the ordinary tissue paper is .001 inch thick.

No. 2 - By using the millimeter slide gauge and setting the gauge to the bottom of the barrel up to the ledge seating the barrel cover. This would give the exact width of space required for mainspring. By deducting about 1/10th millimeter from the full measurement, would give the correct width of spring for that particular barrel.

NO. 3 - In watches that have solid banking pins and alterations must be made without bending the pin, the proper way is to put in new banking pins instead of bending the pins inward, enlarge the holes in the plate and put in larger pins. This would naturally decrease the angular motion of the watch. If the pins have to be bent outward, allowing more room for the lever action, new pins might be inserted that would fit the hole in the plate but the part of pin that extends thru the plate should be turned down smaller in diameter or sometimes the side of the pin could be shaved off with a sharp cutting tool In either case the pins will be left upright

DN: I would like information art how to rebush worn plates, especially wrist watches. How can I rebush these with friction jewels and be certain the train will line up as when it was new? What tools do I need and what methods do I follow?

Answer: The ordinary procedure for setting the friction jewel is to select a reamer of proper diameter for the jewel to be used and then with a friction jeweling tool, press the jewel to place. This sounds as a simple operation however, many workmen take it for granted that it is simple and when reaming the hole, use undue pressure when placing the reamer in the hole and in that way will cut more from one side of the hole than the other, causing the hole to be out of upright. To correct this error, it would be necessary to place the watch plate in a face plate of a lathe and centering the lower jewel accurately. Then screw the bridge fast to the plate, using the slide rest with a fine boring tool, boring the hole so it is concentric and the hole parallel throughout it's length.

Select a jewel of proper size to fit pivot, set the jewel in a brass wire, check hole for truth and if the hole is true, cut the brass 'Wire down to a friction fit, cutting to proper length or thickness of plate when the top of the setting is polished flat and the inside stripped, leaving a bright cut.

The jewel can now be pressed into the plate when the wheel will once more be upright and depthings correct.

CD : Your request for information or advise on how to test for short and long fork, how to find bank or drop position, how to make angular tests, how to swedge the fork when testing the escapement, altering permanent banking pins.

Answer: Space does not permit to cover all these subjects you treat on. May I suggest you obtain a copy of "It's Timing That Counts" covering all these subjects. The book may be procured from your jobber or the American Horologist direct. 

Cleaning Solutions

From Horology magazine, February, 1938

Cleaning Solutions

Editor Horology

Dear Sir:

Can you give me formulas for reliable cleaning and rinsing solutions for large clock movements? 

J. I. S.

Answer: As a rule large clock movements have lacquered plates. Sometimes even the wheels are lacquered. It is therefore essential that the cleaning fluid leave the lacquer untouched. We recommend that you use a high test gasoline or petroleum ether for cleaning and rinsing. Unlacquered parts may be cleaned with any of the regular watch cleaning machine solutions.

Question Box was a regular feature of Horology magazine.  For more Question Box news, look here!

Cleaning Dials

From Horology magazine, October 1939

Cleaning Dials

The Waltham Watch Company has prepared the following instructions for cleaning watch dials of its own manufacture.


'Our dials are lacquered for protection before the printing is applied. Therefore, finished dials can be cleaned only by such methods as do not remove the printing. Such cleaners as benzol, benzine, carbon tetrachloride, trichlorethylene and patented watch cleaners tend to soften and remove the printing. Benzol, carbon tetrachloride and cyanide cleaners also soften and remove the lacquer; Small scratches on the dials produced by careless handling allow cleaning solutions to flow underneath the lacquer with the result that the lacquer may peel. The use of a buff stick in cleaning hands may cause the lacquer to crack at the sharp edges of the hands and later this lacquer will peel. Under no circumstances should dials or hands be put into washing machines.

"Dials and hands may be cleaned by brushing with a dry camel's hair brush or with a dry, soft, jeweler's brush. If more vigorous cleaning is necessary the brush should be moistened with ethyl alcohol. (Grain alcohol)


"Another method of cleaning dials and hands is to brush them with a camel's hair or soft jeweler's brush dipped in cold soapy water. The soap should then be thoroughly rinsed off with clean water after which the dials should be dipped into ethyl alcohol and dried immediately in sawdust.

"A number of tests performed on dials six months old as well as some just taken from the dial department showed that the dials could be cleaned by the proper procedure without causing the lacquer to peel"