Hairsprings Touched by Rust

From Horology magazine, December 1937

Suggestion Department
Hairsprings Touched by Rust
By CLARENCE D. HINES

I have, on a 12, 16 or 18 size watch, taken the spring, when not too rusty (and sometimes they were pretty bad,) and cleaned it. I remove the spring, slip the collet on a slender pegwood or broach slightly tight, grasp the coils in the left hand between the thumb and finger and push slightly forward, enough to expose the coils.

With a pegwood dipped in clock oil and diamantine scrub the rust off, being very careful not to bend or kink the coils. Then repeat the process on the inside if rusty there also.

Rinse in benzine and dry. Then place upon a screw-bluing copper strip, put a good drop of clock oil on the spring and hold over the alcohol lamp until the oil smokes a little. Remove, rinse again in benzine, replace spring on balance, re-vibrate because it will be weaker Do not shorten spring or alter collet pinning, but make the wheel slightly lighter by removing timing washers. If there are none lighten by placing balance screws in the lathe and with a sharp graver removing material under the head. Do not shorten the heads, however.

I have springs in use many years with no further rusting or bother of any kind. But unless one is skilled in handling hairsprings he had better practice. 

Removing Connon Pinions

From Horology magazine, December 1937

Suggestion Department
Removing Connon Pinions
By H. W. PETTENGILL

There are many ways of removing cannon pinions from small wrist watches and most of us, at some time or other, have broken a center post in so doing. For some time I have used a four- jaw pin-vise. 

First remove the balance wheel, hands, dial and hour wheel. Then tighten the vise on the cannon pinion. With a slight turn and gentle pull the tightest fitting cannon pinion comes off easily, quickly and safely.

Suggestion Department

From Horology magazine, December 1937

Suggestion Department
Checking Train
By Jos. B. OLIPHANT

I am a Philadelphia watchmaker, but not personally acquainted with Leonard P. Coggin. I can't express my gratitude enough far the valuable information that the watchmaker is going to receive through the suggestion of Leonard P. Coggin.

Here is my first suggestion, and contribution to this valuable cause and may be the answer to. L. W. S. problem of "watches balk." After watch is properly cleaned, ailed and assembled as far as the escape wheel, don't have the cannon pinion attached, but have the main spring barrel ratchet wheel attached. Take a screw driver, insert in the screw slat, turn as if winding and the train wheels will back lash, the better the watch is jeweled the greater the back lash. Of course this takes a little experience as to how a watch in good condition will back lash and one that is defective and not to forget to bear in mind the amount of jewels this particular watch may have. If the watch does not have the proper back lash the trouble is in one of the train wheels; if an the other hand the watch has the proper back lash the trouble is to be traced from there on.