Questions and Answers

From The American Horologist magazine, July 1940

Questions and Answers
(Questions by members and readers, answers by National Technical Board and other authoritative sources, What are your problems?)

QUESTION: - Why do screws and steady pins stick?

ANSWER: - by L. T. Christopherson, Technical Board.

The screw and steady pins would stick for various reasons. One and primary reason would be that some watchmaker did not see fit to entirely disassemble movement-the process of cleaning.
Another reason: Did not rotate watch long enough in the rinse solution.

Any other reasons would be faulty manufacture or abuses by watchmakers. I will state, however, that I have had no difficulty in this section with the trouble you mention.

If at any future time that you have a puzzle-just send it to me and I will answer it to the best of my ability.

QUESTION: - How to tighten center pinion to wheel when it becomes loose?

ANSWER: - By W. H. Samelius, UHAA Technical Board.

If the center wheel is fastened to the center pinion, being staked on, the pinion leaves being riveted over the wheel, the same as the balance wheel is fastened to the staff, using a hollow round nose punch, should fasten the wheel to the pinion securely.

If the seat for the wheel is too low, it would be necessary to put the pinion in the lathe, cutting a new seat for the wheel, making the riveting shoulder higher. If it is for an American watch, where the center wheel becomes loose from the arbor, there is a special four lipped punch that comes with the staking tool for that particular purpose. This four lipped punch will set the riveting, or indent the shoulder into the brass wheel, securing the wheel so that it cannot turn on the arbor. 

Cleaning Solutions

From Horology magazine, February, 1938

Cleaning Solutions

Editor Horology

Dear Sir:

Can you give me formulas for reliable cleaning and rinsing solutions for large clock movements? 

J. I. S.

Answer: As a rule large clock movements have lacquered plates. Sometimes even the wheels are lacquered. It is therefore essential that the cleaning fluid leave the lacquer untouched. We recommend that you use a high test gasoline or petroleum ether for cleaning and rinsing. Unlacquered parts may be cleaned with any of the regular watch cleaning machine solutions.

Question Box was a regular feature of Horology magazine.  For more Question Box news, look here!

Question Box, Going and Motor Barrels

From Horology magazine, February, 1939

Going and Motor Barrels

Editor Horology

Dear Sir:

What is the definition of and the difference between a motor barrel and a going barrel? This is in reference to a mainspring barrel. 

G. E. E.

Answer: A "going barrel" is one having the teeth on its circumference and driving the train without the intervention of a fusee. The term "motor barrel" is usually applied to that type of barrel in which the mainspring is wound by rotating the barrel itself and the power is delivered to the train by the arbor.

One of the advantages claimed for the motor barrel is that in case of a mainspring breaking the center pinion is not likely to be damaged.

Question Box

From Horology magazine, August, 1938

Mainsprings Break Repeatedly

Editor Horology

Dear Sir:

I would like to ask a question. I got a 6 size safety barrel watch with a broken mainspring and I have already put in three genuine factory mainsprings which broke within 48 hours. I use a K & D mainspring winder and have never had this happen before.

Can the cause be in the watch or is it on account of the weather or defects in the springs? I will be very grateful for your opinion of the trouble.

E. C.

Answer: It is a well known fact that an electrical storm always results in an increased number of broken mainsprings. However, the fact that three mainsprings in succession have broken would indicate that the entire package of springs is defective. Such things have occurred before and the manufacturer usually is glad to replace such a package free of charge. Your watch is an old model and has no doubt functioned for years, so that one could not reasonably blame any defect in the watch for this trouble. 

Question Box

From Horology magazine, November, 1938

Question Box

Mainsprings Break

Editor HOROLOGY, 
Dear Sir:
Would you please tell me the cause of a watch mainspring breaking shortly after cleaning the watch? In one watch I cleaned, the spring broke about two hours after assembly.  I usually don't clean the spring, just put in fresh oil. This doesn't happen in very many watches and I thought perhaps the watch had been laid away wound tightly for some time before cleaning, causing it to break when put in use again.

Will you please give your opinion on this?

F. R. C.

Answer: The exact cause of mainspring breakage is not definitely known.  According to one theory it is due to minute imperfections in the steel itself which are introduced during manufacture. We do not believe that the process of cleaning had anything to do with the breaking of the spring. As a matter of fact, mainsprings often break in the packages before they are ever placed in watches.

If you do not clean mainsprings when you take watches apart you are making a grave mistake for it is as essential to clean the barrel and mainspring of a watch as it is the other parts. By handling the springs with reasonable care there should be no undue amount of breakage.

Idler Wheel

Editor Horology,
Dear Sir:
May I submit a question to the Question Box? It concerns the mechanism of a sweep second wrist watch, the type which has a wheel placed above the train bridge, pressed onto a pivot of the third wheel and engages a pinion running through the center wheel staff. The question is, "By what procedure is this wheel removed when taking the watch apart for cleaning?"

F.M.S.

Answer: In a factory, where just one type of movement is handled by an individual a special fixture would be used for this' purpose, but the repairer must be able to handle all makes of watches. A safe and simple method of removing the extra third wheel is to first take off the bridge and wheel. By holding the wheel with one hand and the regular third wheel with the other hand the two can be separated by gently twisting and pulling them apart.

Poising Editor 

Horology 

Dear Sir:

When poising a balance should weight ever be removed from a timing screw? In a 992 Hamilton should the overcoil of the hairspring be below the center wheel? If it is in line with the center wheel will it strike when the mainspring is fully wound?

M.F.C.

Answer: Timing screws should never be filed, turned or otherwise reduced in weight when poising a balance. They are intended only for bringing a watch to time by turning them in or out. If any alterations in weight are necessary to poise a balance, only the other screws should be touched.

The 992 Hamilton movement is designed so that the level of the hairspring is below the center wheel. In fact, unless a watch has been somehow mutilated it does not seem possible that anyone could alter this relation.

Contact Mechanism for Clock 

Editor Horology 

Dear Sir:

I have an old Brown street clock with two dials, the movement of which is worn out. I also have a Seth Thomas No. 70 regulator in my store on which I would like to put a cam and contact mechanism to operate minute impulse secondary clocks behind each dial on the street clock.

Would this affect the timekeeping of my regulator? And how much extra weight would I have to add to the present clock weight to pull the extra load operating the contact cam?

Any advice you have to offer will be appreciated.

Very truly yours,

]. N. B.

Answer: If the contact mechanism is made fairly sensitive it will have very little effect on the rate of your clock. The extra drag will be so little that no addition to the driving force should be necessary. Inasmuch as the contact finger will have to be very light. it will not be able to safely carry sufficient current to operate two large clocks so that it will be advisable to interpose a relay. The cam should be placed on the escape wheel arbor of your regulator and need not be any greater than a half inch in diameter.

The smaller the size of the cam, the less power will be lost in friction. With good workmanship there is even the possibility of securing enough pressure on the contact finger to transmit sufficient current to operate the secondary clocks without a relay. Circuit breakers have been successful applied to watch movements and it is comparatively easy to install one in a large clock.

To prevent sparking and the consequent burning of the contacts a condenser and resistance should be connected to them. 

Question Box

From Horology magazine, March, 1938

Question Box

Editor HOROLOGY, 
Dear Sir:

I would appreciate very much a few suggestions concerning the proper or most approved methods of handling repaired watches. By that I mean, is it best to provide a watch rack to hang on the wall or would a cabinet be more useful?

At the present time we are using regular jewelry trays which we keep in the show-cases and, of course, these trays are transferred to the safe at the close of the day. We are not satisfied with our present way of handling as we have several hundred watches being transported back and forth from the safe with the result that they sometimes get damaged in moving. 

E. M.

Answer: Handling repair jobs is quite a problem. The methods adopted vary with the size of the store and the number of watches. The system described here is in use at the Slavick Jewelry Company, one of the largest jewelry establishments in Los Angeles.

The watches are kept in cabinet drawers which are made with a separated number compartment for each watch. The compartments are made in several different sizes to accommodate ladies' wrist watches, mens' strap watches and pocket watches. The compartments for pocket watches are made to hold the watches in a vertical position.

The compartment number of a watch is marked on the repair ticket and in the repair record book. At night the drawers are placed in the safe and in the day they are kept in a cabinet in the watch repair department. 

Question Box

From Horology magazine, November, 1937

Question Box

Hairsprings Catch

Editor HOROLOGY, 
Dear Sir:

Please be kind enough to tell me the reason why we are having so much trouble on the hairsprings of a ladies' wrist watch.

Many times the hairspring is caught on the regulator pins, and sometimes the hairspring is caught on the end of the balance bridge, and also on the end of the regulator.

Thanking you for your kindness, I am a subscriber 

E. E. G.

Answer: Hairsprings usually become caught because the watch has been given a violent jar, looping the outer coil or coils over the regulator or bridge. When a spring catches this way there is little that the horologist can do to prevent it.

The diameter of the spring and general design of the regulator and bridge are contributing factors in making it possible for the spring to get caught.

In other cases a coil of the spring may catch on the burred end of a regulator 

pin, or if the pins are slightly too long an extra coil may jump in between them.

These minor faults can easily be corrected. The regulator pins must have no appreciable excess extending below the portion of the spring which they straddle and the ends of the pins should be free from any sort of burr.

Question Box

From Horology magazine, November, 1937

Question Box

Editor HOROLOGY, 
Dear Sir:
At various times I have read articles on position adjusting but I am still at a loss to understand what to do if a watch does not run right in positions. Some writers claim that if a watch is in good mechanical condition, freshly cleaned and oiled, it is bound to perform well in positions. A great portion of my work consists of railroad watches. I use a watch cleaning machine for cleaning and _____ oil for lubrication. Until recent months I used _____ oil. The reason I changed to the present brand is because I had a number of watches which ran well for a little while but started to act up shortly after being put in service. My greatest difficulties are in getting the flat positions to run alike, and no small amount of grief do I experience with the pendant up position, which, as if for spite, always runs slow. Sometimes I question whether the factories do anything to adjusted watches outside of stamping them "Adjusted." The reason for my suspicion is that I have as many difficulties with supposedly new watches as I do with those I repair.

An example of my grief is the case of a trainman, whose old watch I have condemned and recommended the purchase of a new _____ watch. I have been trying to regulate it now for the last three months, and just when I think that I moved the regulator the right amount it comes back the next week with a much greater variation.

I gave up a good position which I held for many years, on account of the difficulty in repairing the small baguette watches only to jump into something far more troublesome. I apologize for my lengthy letter but I can assure you that there are many others who experience the same difficulties and would also like to know what to do when a watch does not regulate, what books to obtain for information on this subject and how good timekeeping to expect of a railroad watch.

R. M. S.

Answer: In order to fully cover all of the difficulties pointed out in this letter it would consume the pages of a good size book. Indeed one could go on indefinitely just explaining why a watch may vary in the flat positions only. In the limited space of the Question Box we can touch only briefly on the subjects in question.

The brand of oil you have been using, as well as that which you are using now, is considered to be of good quality. It has already been pointed out in the article "Oiling a Watch" (See August issue of HOROLOGY) that there is just as much in the manner of oiling a watch as there is in the brand of oil.

The statement that "a watch which is in good mechanical condition will have a good position rate" is very true. The difficulty is to be able to recognize when the watch is in such a condition. Just as there is a definite mechanical reason why an automobile engine stops, knocks, or consumes too much gas, so is there a particular cause for every peculiar position rate of a watch. Some of the most common faults which cause variation in the flat positions are as follows: A pitted or out of flat endstone, the end of one pivot may be flat while the other is rounded; one pivot may be freely projecting through the jewel while the other chokes on the cone. A slight burr on one pivot will sometimes also cause a variation in the flat positions, especially if the balance has too much end shake and the pivot hangs up on the burr and prevents the opposite pivot from reaching the endstone. Unequal sizes of hole jewels in the balance or even in the fork will cause a variation in the flat positions, to say nothing about excessive endshake in any escapement member, level of the hairspring and a host of other reasons too numerous to mention here.

Among the common causes for slow pendant positions are open regulator pin.  No eye loupe is too powerful for examining regulator pins. All upright positions may be accelerated or retarded by the slightest touch of the regulator pins. Other important points to observe are good poise of the balance and perfection in pivots. When a balance does not seem to come to poise there must be something wrong with its pivots. A balloon chuck for examining and touching up pivots is good enough. The best, however, is the old-fashioned contrivance illustrated in Figure 2. In this tool the pivot rotates on its own cone and by putting the heavy number 8 Dumont tweezer against the parallel section one can easily tell whether it is bent or perfect.

For those who are fortunate enough to own a regular microscope the device illustrated on page 11 of the January 1937 issue of HOROLOGY, is recommended.

The correct pinning point of the inner terminal of the hairspring plays no small part in the good rate of a watch. However, manufacturers of modern railroad watches are fully aware of this fact and the average horologist will do well not to tamper with it, outside of observing whether the hairspring runs true in the flat and the round.

Watches stamped "adjusted" are actually- adjusted. Occasionally, however, one runs across a seemingly new watch which gives trouble. In many cases an investigation may reveal that it has been tampered with since it left the factory. If one finds scratched bridges, nicked jewel settings or chewed up screw slots it is a sure sign that the watch has been in the hands of a poor workman, for these are not factory trade marks.

A watch which runs within five or six seconds between the dial up and dial down positions and does not vary over fifteen seconds in all five positions may be considered an excellent commercial timekeeper.

A good book on adjusting is "Rules and Practice for Adjusting Watches" by Walter J. Kleinlein.

Question Box

From Horology magazine, April, 1939

Question Box

Bent Centers, Demagnetizing and Poising

Editor Horology, 
Dear Sir:
How can I straighten the shaft the cannon pinion fits on, in 12 size very thin Elgin and Illinois watches? Most everyone that comes in has the center post bent. Watchmakers apparently bend these posts while crowding the hands on.

A Parker wrist watch that is very strongly magnetized has been brought in.  I have taken this watch in to Cleveland to four watchmakers. No demagnetizer will take out the electricity. I suppose I will have to take the watch apart and demagnetize each piece separately.

What oil shall I use in winding and setting of pocket and wrist watches? I have been using clock oil, but I have been told that I should use grease as thick as vasoline.

Please tell me how to poise a balance.

I have my balance wheel before me on my agate poising tool, balance, staff and rim with screws. Where do I go from here? Should I have balance, staff and rim with screws, roller collet and roller jewel with hairspring and stud? All watchmakers do differently. I would like to know the right way.

D. F. J.

Answer: We suggest that you check your method of removing cannon pinions. Make sure that the pull is straight upward without side pressure. It would appear to us that some of the bent center posts you encounter are probably due to your own method of removing the pinions.

There is no easy method for straightening a bent center. The usual procedure is to hold the post in the lathe chuck and forcing the wheel in the desired direction with the fingers. In some instances it is possible to force the post direct in the watch.

Every horologist should own a demagnetizer and thus save the trouble of sending out a job which can be done in a few seconds. Modern demagnetizers work efficiently and one should not need to take a watch to pieces for mere demagnetization.

We suggest that you follow the oil manufacturers' advice as 'to which oil to use on the winding parts. Practically all makers of oil specify this on the instruction circulars which are supplied with each bottle of oil. They make recommendations as to which one of their grades to use on the train, winding and escapements.

When poising a balance, the unit placed on the jaws of the poising tool should consist only of the balance, staff, rollers and roller jewel. No poising can be done without removing the hairspring.

Question Box

From Horology magazine, April, 1939

Question Box

Finishing Pivots 

Editor Horology, 
Dear Sir:

Your advice is earnestly asked in the following problem.

My present method of restoring rough or damaged balance pivots is to remove the hairspring and roller, mount the balance wheel in the split chuck and go to work on the pivots with oil-stone powder, diamontine, iron and bell metal slips. This method is satisfactory in producing results but is slow, particularly in adjusting, where it is sometimes necessary to grind the cone of the pivot back.

The balloon type of chuck is unsatisfactory except for working on the pivot end. I have concluded that the American type pivot polisher as made for the American lathe would be slower than my above method as used in general repair work.

The Jacot lathe seems to be the answer but while I have studied your articles on this tool which appeared in Horology, also the article in "Practical Benchwork," I still do not understand its use thoroughly. It is clear that no grinding or polishing compounds can be used in connection with this tool as the rests and the lanterns would soon be ruined.

It is stated that pivot files are to be used. But how? Are they drawn to and fro over the rests while the staff is rotated with the bow? It seems to me that this would soon ruin both file and rest. Also I find that watchmakers' files will not cut all staffs. Before burnishing a pivot with steel it has been my belief that it was first necessary to prepare it for burnishing by polishing with diamontine. Assuming that I have the pivot filed to the desired size how am I to proceed to polish it on the Jacot lathe? Am I to understand that a proper polish can be had by burnishing only?

P. A. H.

Answer: Most American balance staffs are too hard to be filed in the Jacot lathe. Neither is there any reason why American staffs should require filing.

Any make of balance staff may be burnished on the Jacot lathe with a burnisher to which oil is applied. Dry burnishing should never be practiced. The burnisher will also reduce the pivot in diameter and if a burnisher with a cone file is used, the pivot may thus be lengthened. The degree of cutting which a burnisher will do depends on the grade of emery paper on which it is dressed.

If much material is to be removed from a pivot a burnisher dressed 011 coarse paper should be used. Finer polishing is done with a burnisher dressed on fine emery paper. Diamontine or cutting stones should never be used on the Jacot lathe except for touching up a pivot when supported by the lantern spindle. The pivot files, if properly used, will not damage the tool.

Question Box

From Horology magazine, October1939

Question Box

Cleaning Clocks 

Editor Horology, Dear Sirs:
Your magazine has proven invaluable to me, especially the articles on cleaning machines and question box feature, and here is one I would like to have answered.


What method is most satisfactory for ordinary cleaning of alarm clocks? I mean, by this, Big Ben and Baby Ben clocks in particular. Of course, we all know it is not practical to work on cheap, dollar clocks, but the Westclox line is built on repairable standards.


At present I use a naphtha bath for clocks, brushing them thoroughly with a stiff brush. I remove the balance and springs, point the balance pivots, if necessary, and reoil the clock. This method gives fair results, but I would like to know if there is any particular method of cleaning with a solution and rinse as we use on watches.


I have converted a hand drill into a cleaning machine for clocks. After removing the dial and hour wheel, I tighten the chuck of the drill on the center post of the clock and immerse it in the naphtha. Then by turning the drill handle the clock revolves in the naphtha and dislodges all loose dirt and gum. I will be interested to hear what you have to say on this subject and I am sure others will also. We have modern methods in watch cleaning but clocks have been neglected, and a good profit may be realized from alarm and chime clock repairing.

J·W.T.



Answer: Your method calls for little improvement, with the exception of the addition of a higher test gasoline bath for a rinse.

Larger clocks, of course, offer the difficulty of using a large enough jar and cover for keeping the bath. We might also suggest that you prepare a sieve for holding large parts of the better grade clocks which are taken all apart. Your method of using a hand drill for clock cleaning should be a helpful hint to every horologist who is called upon to work on clocks.


The same solutions which are used on watches may be used on some clocks, but due to the fact that many clock plates are lacquered most of the watch solutions are not suitable. For the general run of repairing the method you have described is probably as good as any.

Question Box- How Many Watches Per Day?

From Horology magazine, September1937

How Many Watches Per Day?

Editor HOROLOGY,
Dear Sir:
I would appreciate very much your answering the following questions either direct or through your question box.
How many watches should a good watchmaker be able to turn out in a day, as an average?
What is a reasonacble percentage of come-backs over a period of a year?
W. R. K.

Answer: To answer these questions with a definite figure is no more possible than to tell how long it will take to put a certain watch in good order on the strength of the price quoted. In the first place, it would be necessary to define the term "good watchmaker." How many of the 100,000 watchmakers in the United States claim to be inferior? Even the man whose bench is surrounded by rusty revolvers and antiquated cameras, in a Main Street pawn shop, proudly displays his slogan "expert watch repairing." The Horological Institute of America, for instance, is an authority passing on the grade of workmanship. But, efficiency does not depend entirely on the skill exhibited in an examination watch when practically unlimited time is granted for executing the job.


Horology challenges assertions frequently made that this or that firm does not pay for, or does not allow, the use of a slide-rest, pivot polisher or similar instruments. These are all labor saving devices and no one practicing horology with only a few screw-drivers and tweezers can ever hope to compete, either in quality or quantity, with the horologist who commands a good set of tools. The fact that a number of us still keep our slide-rests in the original canvas bags proves that we have not as yet learned how to use them.


Another factor in the efficiency of a watch repair shop is the actual location of the work shop. It will be found that the proprietor of the average jewelry store will go to almost any amount of trouble to place the jewelry repairers in the choicest part of the store, but for the watch repair department he ill allot some useless corner or a stuffy balcony.


Such an employer has only the right to ask his watchmakers how many jobs they can produce under the most unfavorable conditions.


Even after considering the ability of the individual workman, his equipment and general working conditions, the important subject of material is to be reckoned with. Any employer who expects a great volume of work from his employees should be prepared to provide the shop with a modern and systematically arranged material department. Putting a job aside until a mainspring, staff or jewel arrives from the material house or fishing for a crown or stem in a mixture of odds and ends does not constitute efficiency.


In a like manner the percentage of come-backs will depend on conditions already mentioned.  A skilled workman with modern equipment working in an ideal shop with a good stock of material at his disposal, will have less come-backs.

Question Box

From Horology magazine, April, 1939

Question Box

Jeweled Bankings

Editor Horology, 
Dear Sir:
Please answer in your Question Box.

What is the advantage of jeweled banking pins? How many watches should a watchmaker, working full time at the bench, put in good order per day?

Answer: If the spot where the fork strikes the banking be examined with a microscope it will be found that it is not perfectly clean. It will show a coating on the fork as well as the pin, similar to the substance which appears on the contact surfaces of wheels and pinions. It seems to come from nowhere but is probably due to a minute sliding of the fork over the banking pin, especially if the pallet arbor fits freely in the jewels.

Assuming, therefore, that there is a sliding action, a jeweled surface becomes beneficial. However, the refinement of jeweling the banking is justified in none but highly adjusted watches.

The question of hew many watches per day one should turn out will remain unanswered for some time to come. For the output of work depends on general shop conditions as well as the skill and knowledge of the individual workman.

Among the horologist's tools, for instance, are a number of devices which are not often used. Those who own plenty of equipment seldom get stuck when something out of the ordinary is required. The horologist who limits his equipment to the ordinary bench tools gets lost when a slight alteration is needed or a new part has to be made. Another important factor is an adequate stock of material. Much valuable time is lost in hunting for material. To maintain a good stock, however, is not everything. It is equally important that the material be kept systematically, so that one may tell at a glance whether or not he has a particular piece.

A fair daily average also depends much on the policy of a store in accepting watches for repairs. In too many instances horologists are compelled to work on watches which should have been junked long ago. And last but not least, the general surroundings in the shop, such as light, air and working space, also affect the output.

Question Box

From Horology magazine, July1938

Question Box

Double Faced Clock

Editor Horology,

Dear Sir:

I would like to get some information in regard to the following problem that I had last week.

I have a Swiss 8 day clock with two faces, that is, it has two dials, one on each side of the clock. The movement is exactly the same as a regular watch with the exception of the connection of the minute wheel which is also on both sides of the movement, fastened by a shaft that goes through the movement.

Now here comes the trouble. One side of the clock shows the time, say exactly 3 o'clock, but the other side of the clock shows 3 minutes past 3 o'clock. This, a3 far as I can see, comes from the amount of play in the gearing. This amount is by all means correct and nothing can be altered there. After the clock has run for 3 minutes the hands of both dials are together again. But, should one set this clock from the other side of the movement, that is, from the extra dial, he will set his clock at the correct time, but the hand will not start moving until after 3 minutes, thereby making the clock 3 minutes too slow right from the start.

The only possible way that I find to eliminate the error is by setting the hands of the clock backwards and then it seems to be alright. The extra minute wheel, has a friction spring underneath it. I have tried to remedy this by adjusting this friction, but to no avail.

Your opinion on this problem would be greatly appreciated, as I am not sure if this clock always did this or not. One cannot tell on which side the balance wheel is or the cannon pinion when the clock is all assembled into its case as both sides are exactly alike.

A. P.

Answer: The construction of these clocks is such that the hands on one side will always be several minutes behind the others because of the backlash in the gearing. For this there is no remedy.

Ship's Bell Strike 

Editor Horology, 

Dear Sir:

Will you kindly explain in your Question Box how to set the hands on a ship's bell clock, the kind that does not strike the full 12 hours.

Answer: The striking mechanism of a ship's bell clock divides a day into 6 four hour periods, beginning at 12, 4, 8, etc.  At the beginning of any of these periods, at 12 o'clock for example, it strikes 8 times. Then at 12 :30 it strikes 1 bell, at 1 :00 it strikes 2 bells, etc., until at 4 :00 0' clock it again strikes 8 bells and the cycle repeats itself.

Mainspring Too Strong 

Editor Horology, 

Dear Sir:

I have an --- watch which is constantly rebanking. It already has the thinnest mainspring which I could obtain and yet the power still seems to be too great. It starts to rebank when it is wound up only half way. Can you tell me how to overcome this difficulty?

H. R. S.

Answer: The proper method of preventing the watch from rebanking is to use a weaker mainspring. Even though the size is not to be had already provided with a brace, an ordinary Swiss spring can be cut to length and the old brace riveted to it. Another method is to replace the balance staff with one having larger pivots and jewels to correspond.

WATCH AND CHRONOMETER TRIALS 

The highest mark in the watch trials for 1937 at the National Physical Laboratory (Teddington, England) was again obtained by the Omega Watch Company with 97.3 points. The best chronometer was submitted by Thomas Mercer, whose chronometers have received the highest marks since 1928.

It is interesting to note that of the 63 watches whose rates are given in the official report 9 were tourbillons, all made by Patek, Philippe & Co.

THE ENGLISH DOMESTIC CLOCK 

Under this title an interesting book on the evolution and history of English domestic clocks has been published. Only a very limited number of copies of this work by H. Alan Lloyd have been privately printed.

The connoisseur and collector of clocks will appreciate the numerous details calculated to facilitate the placing and dating of old clocks. The book contains many beautiful illustrations of pieces in such well known collections as C. A. IIbert, ]. Wainwright, and the South Kensington Museum. 

Copies of this volume may be obtained from Malcolm Gardner, 3 Earnshaw St., New Oxford St., London, W. C. 2, at the price of 6/4d (approximately $1.60). 

Question Box

From Horology magazine, November, 1937

Question Box

Watches Balk

Editor HOROLOGY, 
Dear Sir:

So many watches come in for cleaning only and after they are cleaned nicely and put back together some of the watches balk or stop running in the course of a few hours or maybe during the night. Seemingly no cause that can be found, jewels are all perfect, and no side play.

Find the greater trouble in Swiss watches as well as some American watches. We found the trouble in most all makes of watches.

Yours truly,

L. W. S.

Answer: From your letter we conclude that your troubles are not due to just one fault. There are hundreds of reasons why a watch will stop. Only an examination of each individual case will determine the exact cause.

Our suggestion would be an intensive study of both theoretical and practical horology. With greater knowledge of the subject you will find increasing ability to recognize defects in watches. As far as we can see the only solution to your problem is further study.

Question Box

From Horology magazine, April, 1939

Question Box

Trouble in the Train

Editor Horology, 
Dear Sir:
I have a problem that I would like to have answered in your Question Box.

I have had several watches with the same trouble and now have an eight day Swiss traveler's clock. I use a cleaning machine and on this particular job, which was a little more gummed than usual, I brushed and pegged the plates and cleaned the pinions with pegwood also, before cleaning in the machine. After assembling this clock the train is perfectly free and runs completely down, but when I put the fork in and escape it either by pushing the fork back and forth or by putting the balance in and letting it escape normally, it locks up in the train tightly enough to stay locked even with the balance and fork removed. The least touch frees it and it runs completely down again.

I have examined every leaf in every pinion and every tooth in every wheel with an 18X loupe and simply cannot find the trouble. I have encountered this trouble several times before in small watches and by sheer luck got them going, but I do not know why. If you can enlighten me on this problem it will be a very big load off my shoulders and will be greatly appreciated.

R. T. W.

Answer : Your description seems to indicate that the watches and clocks stop chiefly on account of worn bearings. As soon as power is applied to the train, either a pivot sticks in an oval shaped hole or the relations between gears become altered. Such faults may escape notice when allowing the train to run down but become apparent as soon as the power is checked by the escapement.

Question Box

From Horology magazine, April, 1939

Question Box

Regulating Watches

Editor Horology, Dear Sir:
I enjoy reading this magazine very much and cannot praise it too highly.

Would like to ask you why the Swiss factories do not give the watchmakers a break. They fill all the holes in the balance wheels with screws so that the watchmaker can not make any change in the weight of the wheel for regulating, except by placing washers or substituting larger screws, which detract from the appearance of the wheel. Many times there is hardly any clearance for larger screws. Would like to have you answer this in the Question Box.

C. O. A.

Answer: Factories maintain that the horologist should never have to change screws for the purpose of regulating a watch. It is quite proper to make a slight change in weight with balance washers.

These, however, should not be larger in diameter than the heads of the screws.

The horologist should always bear in mind that adding or removing a pair of screws may seriously affect the temperature adjustment of the watch.

Question Box

From Horology magazine, November, 1937

Question Box

Tightening Cannon Pinions

Editor HOROLOGY, 
Dear Sir:

Recently I happened to pick up a copy of a July 1936 issue of HOROLOGY. I was much impressed with the article on Systematic Repairing and the explanations on the cannon pinion friction. In my opinion that article would be complete if recommendations of tools used in tightening a cannon pinion were given.

I would also like to know something about the hollow center pinions which were not considered in that article. To get the right friction on the pin which goes through the center has always troubled me. I have been using the triangular punch for tightening the pinion on the pin. For the center friction I roll the pin between two coarse files. Some watchmakers insert a bristle of a brush in the center. What would you recommend?

L. D.

Answer: The use of the triangular punch for tightening a cannon pinion cannot be too strongly condemned. Aside from the mutilation of the pinion the friction thus created is never lasting or smooth. Even if these three nicks should survive long enough to be pushed on the post, the first few times the hands are set they will wear off. For tightening an ordinary cannon pinion there is nothing better than the cutting plier illustrated in Figure 2. The edges of this plier are very thin enabling one to get into the narrow groove of a small pinion without burring the square sides of the groove. Of no less importance is the adjustable stop screw, an absolute assurance that the pinion will not be cut in two. In addition one should always insert a round steel broach in the pinion while tightening it.

The hollow center pinion, a cross section of which is shown in Figure 3, needs a somewhat different treatment. The insertion of a bristle or rolling the pin between files is unmechanical and is not recommended, even if it does work after a fashion. In case the center pin is badly damaged or hopelessly small nothing short of a new pin will do. It is possible, however, to place the pin in the staking tool on a flat stump and tap it with a flat punch as shown in Figure 4. After it is thus flattened it may be stoned to size either in the lathe or by holding in a pinvise on the filing block.

Question Box

From Horology magazine, November, 1937

Question Box

Rusty Hairsprings

Editor HOROLOGY, 
Dear Sir:

Would you please send me information or print in your Question Box about care of hairsprings regarding rust. I believe this would be of interest to other horologists close to the sea coast as I am.

1. Is there any way to treat a hairspring so it will not rust when used in a damp climate?

2. Is there some way to save a hairspring that has one or two rust spots on it?

3. How would you clean and care for the hairspring of a watch that has been in water but was brought in before rust has started, say in a few hours?

Yours truly,

R. S. P.

Answer: There is no way to prevent a steel hairspring from rusting if it is subjected to dampness. Many modern watches are made with hairsprings of nonrusting material such as elinvar, nivarox, etc.

Very little can be done with a spring which has already started to rust. It may be carefully cleaned and heated in oil but in time thr rust will spread and completely ruin the spring. 

A watch which has been in water must be cleaned as soon as possible. If rust has not yet started no particular treatment other than a careful cleaning job is necessary. In such a case a watch cleaning machine will undoubtedly do a more thorough cleaning.

Question Box

From Horology magazine, April, 1939

Question Box

Idler Constructed from Plans Published in Horology

Editor Horology, 
Dear Sir:

I am sending you a picture of an idler which I have made solely from the specifications published in your magazine some time ago. This idler was made and milled out, including the base, on a watchmaker's lathe. The material cost less than $5.00. I also have under construction a poising tool and filing machine. Will you please send me working drawings and specifications of a relieving attachment?

Paul T. Hinman Tulsa, Okla.

Answer: We are pleased to note that you have found the plans for construction of tools published in Horology useful. At the moment we have no plans for a relieving attachment but expect to design such a tool in the near future.