How To Open A Pocketwatch Case

There are several types of common pocketwatch cases. It is important to understand which type you're dealing with. Below are basic instruction for opening cases that are:
  • Threaded front and back
  • Hinged front and back
  • Swing-out
  • Snap-on front and back
There are a few other variations of these, but those are rare.

Threaded Front and Back

Many pocketwatch cases have screw-on bezels and backs. This type is case it composed of three main parts; the back, the bezel (the metal ring holder the crystal) and the middle part of the case where the watch movement is held, and to which the stem is attached. This type of case will have no hinges and thin cracks between the middle, the front and the back that can be seen or felt all the way around. Under careful examination, no lip or short widening of the gap at any point will seen.

To open a screw-on back, hold the watch dial-side facing down in the palm of your left hand (reverse if you are left-handed). Hold the stem of the watch with your left thumb. Turn the back counter-clockwise using the palm of the other hand. It is important not to press down too hard on the watch body as this will only make the back cover tighter against the case and thus harder to remove. The counter-clockwise pressure is what will open the case.

This type of case is most common on 16 and 18 size watches.

Snap-on Front and Back

This type of case is built on three parts, like a threaded case. Also like a threaded case, the edges of the parts can be observed around the from the an back where those parts join to the middle. But these cases have a lip or a short wide are in the gap, used to pry off the case parts. Snap on front and back parts are not threaded but instead snap-on to the middle part. The front and back are removed using a watch case opener, inserted at the provided spot. A case opener is similar to a pocket knife - however, never use an actual knife to open a watch case as it is dangerous.

Note that the parts of these cases frequently assemble in a specific orientation. In these cases, a notch of pin can be found on one part with a corresponding slot or hole in the other part. These must line up to snap the parts together.

This type of case is found on 16s and is most common on 12 and smaller size watches.

Swing-Out Cases

This type of case has a threaded (more common) or snap-on front (bezel) and no gap for a back part. With this type of case the front can be removed, and the watch movement "swings out" on a hinge, usually at the top of the movement. The body of the case is otherwise a single part. These cases sometimes require a case opener to left the movement out. Also, if the stem pulls out the setting position (even if it is a lever-set watch) this is required to swing the movement out. It is important to note that not all crowns snap out. The snapping of a crown in and out is a function of the case, not the watch, on early American timepieces. And not all cases feature a snap out crown. Don't just tug on it.

These types of cases are probably the trickiest to open, and to close again. They are particularly common on 18 size watches, as they were once a requirement of some railroad grade specifications.

There are hunting cases (described below) that are swing-outs too, as pictured here.

Swing out cases are sometimes referred to as "basket cases" in older watch literature. I suspect that the more modern meaning of this phrase caused it to fall out of use for watch cases though.

Hinged front and back

This type of case has a visible hinge for both the front and the back. They will typically be a lip for opening these sections also. The swing out hunting case above has a hinged back.


A case opener may be required to open a hinged cases. 

Also, these cases will frequently have a third hinged cover inside the back cover. This is a "dust cover" provided so that the back can be opened, for winding a key-wind watch for example, without exposing the movement. Sometimes these are called "triple hinge" cases. The dust cover may have a hole positioned to allow winding with a key. These cases are frequently seen with 18 size movements, particularly key-set/key-wind movements, and also with 6 size and smaller watches.

Hunting Cases

Hunting, or hunter, cases have lid over the front. The lid is opened by pressing down on the crown. Inside this cover is almost always a snap-on bezel. The back of a hunting case may be any of the above types. It is important when closing a hunting case, to press down on the crown, close the front, and then release the crown. "Snapping" the cover over the catch that normally holds it closed will quickly wear down the catch, and the cover will then not stay closed.

Other Considerations

Not all watch cases have crowns that snap out. And just because a watch is lever-set, does not mean that the crown does not snap out. Watch case companies made cases both ways and a case with a snap out crown will work fine with a lever set watch that doesn't need it.

Some cases, particularly older ones, and European ones, have a set screw in the side of the neck. The stem has a shoulder inside and the screw is holding the stem in. On one of these, the crown does not snap out. Slightly loosening the screw and removing the stem is usually required to get the movement. These are tricky to handle as the screw is usually a very soft metal like gold or silver and is often already damaged.


There are other types of cases too, of more obscure designs. Just one example that I have seen a few times is similar to a swing out case, but the neck of the case is part of the ring holding the movement.

If it is not clear how your watch opens, don't force anything. It is very easy to damage the case or the movement, or both. I have seen many cases with threaded backs hopelessly ruined as a result of being pried on with a knife. 

Take the watch to a good jeweler, and not just a chain store at a mall, and they should be able to open the watch.

Some cases are stuck. They can be remarkably difficult. If you have one of these, again, get the watch to someone with experience. I'd be happy to try to help. Contact me at jsexton@elgintime.com 

Serial Numbers 

With your case open, you will be able to see the movement's serial number. For American watches, the number can usually tell you a little more about the piece.  Find out about your Elgin watch by looking up the serial number here.

Want to learn more about vintage pocketwatches?  Why not join our Vintage Watches community!

19 comments:

TIM said...

I have a question. I have seen many pocket watch cases like star...keystone...bwc c.o....But i just ran across one that has the name inside the back cover called... ACTION... and under it is the serial#. Have you are anyone else heard of that name. It containes a 12s 303 7j elgin inside.

elgintime said...

Hello -
I think that's a new one for me, but the case makes are not something I keep track of. One thing to keep in mind is that in those days a customer would pick out a movement and a case separately at the shop. The dealer, watchmaker or jeweler would assemble them. Sometimes the case is just whatever was available. The Elgin company was one of those that did not make its own cases at all. Elgin watches are found in all sort of cases therefore.

Anonymous said...

Hello
I have a Andre Rivalle pocket watch and I would like to open the case in order to get at the movement. The seam around the back appears very tight, and has no hinge or notch. Does this mean that the back is a twist off back? I tried to twist it off, but no go.
Thanks--Neil

Anonymous said...

Hello
I have a Andre Rivalle pocket watch and I would like to open the case in order to get at the movement. The seam around the back appears very tight, and has no hinge or notch. Does this mean that the back is a twist off back? I tried to twist it off, but no go.
Thanks--Neil

elgintime said...

Hello -
I am not familiar with this brand, but I would say that 1) if there is really no gap or notch, nor hinge, then it is almost certainly threaded. It is worth mentioning though that 1) a slight gap for a case knife can be hard to spot, and 2) a threaded case can definitely be difficult to unscrew, and 3) and swing-out case is a possibility. There are several tricks to doing difficult threaded cases. It would likely be worth bringing the watch to someone with experience if it isn't clear what the situation is.

Thanks!

Anonymous said...

Hi jeff,
I have an elgin antique pocket watch. Screw on face and rear.. I am having trouble removing the rear casing of the watch.. Any hints? I dont want to damagethe watch as it is in xclnt working condition.

elgintime said...

I can be very difficult to unscrew a case back that may not have been removed in 100 years. There can be dirt in the threads, cross-threading damage and in rare cases even a case screw that has come up a little and is now pressing into the inside of the case (that's a big problem, believe me). There are some tricks but mainly it's a matter of not squeezing the case, but only applying rotating pressure. A piece of rubber can help. I would suggest taking it to a reliable jeweler it's a real problem though.

TIM said...

Jeff, I was curious if you might know what has happened to the Elgin web sight, is it down or has it it moved?

elgintime said...

Hello -
What web site do you mean?

TIM said...

elginwatches.org--- I use it mostly to get serial info.

elgintime said...

Seems to be down at the moment, I'd try it again later. You can also try mine, there's a link off this page: http://www.elgintime.com/

TIM said...

Your sight works fine..thanks. The other has been down for at least two days now.

Vicarious said...

I have an Elgin Pocket watch with a 14 karat Gold double hinged case. Ive seen it opened once. I would like to open it front and back. There is a piece that sticks up approximately 3/8 of an inch to the left of the winding mechanism. I would like to open the watch to see if it has gold gears and plates inside.

Thank you, Chris

elgintime said...

The slight tab is probably the point at which the case can be opened by inserting a case knife. It probably does not have a latch as such.

Elgin never made watch cases, so we never know exactly what we have. There are many variations. If you are unsure, be careful. It is easy to damage the case. I would suggest taking it to a good jeweler for advice.

Tim said...

I just wanted to know if your Elgin serial # sight is down.
Tim

elgintime said...

Tim - The Elgin serial number page still exists, but it appears that dyndns.com dropped the domain name without the slightest warning and no longer offers the free service. It will take me some time to work out something else.

TIM said...

Thanks for the info.

Anonymous said...

Tim. I have an elgin watch that belonged to my grandfather. My question is the stem is at 3:00 o'clock. is this a railroad watch?

elgintime said...

A watch with the stem at 3:00 is sometimes referred to as a "side-winder". Take a look here for a couple examples and an explanation:

http://elgintime.blogspot.com/search/label/Side-Winder

There's some information on railroads grades, and what that means, here:

http://www.rdrop.com/~jsexton/watches/faq.html

And also here:

http://elgintime.blogspot.com/search/label/Railroad%20Grade

Thanks!

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