Jeff's ElginTime Watch Blog

Elgin Grade 479

2012-02-04T10:01:00.000-08:00

The Elgin grade 479 is a 12 size "thin model", 17 jewels.

This one was made about 1926. It has an open-face case with a hinged back, engraved "JSS".

The images I usually post here are those made for customers, but this watch is from my own collection.

Waltham Appleton

2012-01-22T16:01:00.000-08:00

Here's a great Waltham Tracy Appleton.

This model is a 17 jewel, 18 size movement, lever-set.

Elgin Grade 192

2012-01-22T15:50:00.000-08:00

The Elgin grade 192 is a 12 size, 17 jewel movement. The decorative finish, called damascene, on this movement is quite nice.

This watch, in an octagonal case, made about 1898.

Elgin Grade 376, Veritas

2012-01-22T15:38:00.000-08:00

This is a grade 376 Elgin, Veritas model. It is a 16 size 23 jewel movement, featuring an up/down wind indicator and motor barrel.

When you change out an Elgin balance staff, the old one is removed by cutting off very close to the entire hub in the lathe. The remaining bit is popped off in the staking tool. This prevents any damage to the arms of the balance wheel, and you get a free tiny washer!

In this picture we see the new staff, upper, and what's left of the old staff.

This fine example was made about 1915.

Balance Vibrations

2012-01-22T08:16:00.000-08:00

From The American Horologist magazine, November 1941

Balance Vibrations
By W. H. Samelius

"All pocket watches and most all wrist watches are so constructed that the balance vibrates 18,000 times per hour. This is usually known as a quick train. There are a few extremely small watches made in which the balance vibrates 19,800 per hour and some, 21,600 per hour. In vibrating hairsprings to the balance for the 18,000 beat watch, the count must be 300 vibrations per minute. It is customary when vibrating a balance, to count each alternate vibration, doubling the result for the actual count. The actual count is more easily controlled in this way. In selecting a hairspring, its diameter should be just one half the diameter of the balance rim. A hairspring of such diameter will usually be proper length for isochronism. The following table shows the time lost or gained for each count the balance makes over or under 300 per minute. For instance, if we count the vibrations of the balance and find it vibrates 298 per minute, it indicates that the balance is losing two vibrations, or 2/5th second per minute. 2/5 minute per hour would be 24 seconds and for 24 hours, the watch would lose 576 seconds or 9 minutes, 36 seconds per day.

"To determine the number of vibrations the balance makes per hour, multiply the number of teeth by themselves, taking the center wheel, 3rd, 4th, and escape wheel, multiply this result by 2 as each tooth of the escape wheel delivers two impulses; first on the receiving stone and then on the discharge. Divide the results by the number of leaves multiplied by themselves, contained in the 3rd, 4th and escape pinion, thus:

64 x 75 x 60 x 15 x 2
-------------------------- = 18,000 beats per hour
8 x 10 x 6

"If the watch or clock carries a second hand, then it would only be necessary to count the teeth in the 4th wheel, multiplying the number of teeth in the 4th wheel by the number of teeth in the escape wheel by two and dividing by the number of leaves in the escape pinion, the results then would be the number of vibrations the balance would make per minute.

Vibrations Seconds Seonds Minutes & Seconds
per minute per min. per hour per day
310 2 120 48
309 1 4/5 108 43.12
308 1 3/5 96 38.24
307 1 2/5 84 33.36
306 1 1/5 72 28.48
305 1 60 24
304 4/5 48 19.12
303 3/5 36 14.24
302 2/5 24 9.36
301 1/5 12 4.48
300 On time On time On time
299 1/5 12 4.48
298 2/5 24 9.36
297 3/5 36 14.24
296 4/5 48 19.12
295 1 60 24
294 1 1/5 72 28.48
293 1 2/5 84 33.36
292 1 3/5 96 38.24
291 1 4/5 108 43.12
290 2 120 48

"When selecting a hairspring, it is essential to select a spring to vibrate correctly. If a spring is fitted that is too weak to too strong, adding or deducting weight from the balance is necessary and if too much weight is either removed or placed on the balance, it will change the arc of the balance, which would show in the final results. Care must be taken that a correct count is made, bearing in mind that we are fitting the hairspring to the balance rather than altering the balance to suit the hairspring."

An Elgin Grade 294 and The Vibrating Arm

2012-01-14T16:07:00.000-08:00

The grade 294 is an 18 size, 7 jewels movement. This one, made about 1917, had a broken part in the winding/setting mechanism (the "keyless works").

The replaced part is called a "vibrating arm".

Elgin Grade 290

2012-01-14T15:51:00.000-08:00

The grade 290 is a 16 size, 7 jewel movement. This example in an open-faced nickel was made about 1911.

Elgin Grade 315

2012-01-14T15:41:00.000-08:00

There are a lot of these out there. The Elgin grade 315, 12 size, 15 jewels, 1921, open-faced nickel case...

A classic.

Elgin Grade 386

2012-01-14T15:33:00.000-08:00

This grade 386 is 16 size, 17 jewel movement.

Nice engraved hunter case with this one, 1912.

American Waltham for a Change

2012-01-14T15:21:00.000-08:00

Here's a nice 0 size, 7 jewel Waltham in a gold hunter case. The grade is 160.

Another Elgin Factory Scene

2012-01-13T07:03:00.001-08:00

Main Entrance Garden, Elgin National Watch Factory...

From Elgin National Watch Co

Storage?

2012-01-08T09:28:00.000-08:00

I use a lot of these things. Does anyone know a cheap source of them, perhaps in quantities?

They can be anything from $7 to $10. The ones with the smaller containers are less common and more costly.

Character

2012-01-08T07:23:00.000-08:00

I don't do restoration as such. I work to repair and stabilize antiques, so that they are in good shape, will last, and can be enjoyed for what they are, as they are, by their current caretakers, and by generations to come. When working with a watch that belonged to someone's grandparent, or great grandparent, I like to think that the result is something like what that person would recall, when the timepiece was in use.

Here's a pocketwatch has an awful lot of character. It looks like someone's old friend. A watch is a personal item, connected to a life history is to be honored and treated with respect. We can only imagine the things such a watch has seen.

This is a 12 size, 7 jewel timepiece, made about 1925.

12s, 16s, 18s, What Do Watch Sizes Mean?

2012-01-08T06:52:00.000-08:00

The Lancashire Gauge for determining watch sizes is of English origin, although its exact roots are not known. In this system, 1 5/30th of an inch is taken to be a base figure of zero lignes (pronounced as "lines"). The measure is across the widest part of the dial-side of the movement, and is thus used for round and non-round movements. Every 1/30th of an inch added in size is one ligne. Sizes smaller than zero are designated with a slash or a comma and numbers ascending. For example 6/0, 8/0 and 20/0 lignes are decreasing watch sizes.

Some common Elgin pocketwatch sizes are 18, 16, 12, 8 and 6. The watch pictured here is a typical Elgin 12s watch in a 10 sided case.

Here are some examples of the sizes.

Watch Size	Inches	mm
18	1 23/30	44.87
16	1 21/30	43.18
12	1 17/30	39.79
0/6	1	25.4
0/8	28/30	23.71
0/10	26/30	22.01

Should You Carry an Antique Watch for Daily Use?

2012-01-02T10:38:00.000-08:00

Should you use a vintage pocketwatch every day? Well, that's up to you. I sometimes wish people wouldn't though. There are two reasons. One is that every time you handle a watch, there's a chance to drop it. No matter how careful you are, it happens. I have regular customers that are watch experts and collectors, and even to them, it happens.

The other reason is that every time a watch needs a part, due to damage or ordinary wear, then that's one less spare part in the world. These parts are not made anymore, not for many decades. We are running through the supply left by the old timers, and what we salvage. When they're gone, they're gone. Parts have gotten more and more scarce over then past 10 years. Big estates and old long closed shops are not so common anymore. Some parts can be made, but this is a significant amount of work.

That said, if you do want to use a vintage pocketwatch everyday, a classic Elgin, 12 or 16 size, from the 'teens on up into the '40s and '50s is a good choice. These are solid and reliable products, well made, without being real high end, and they made a whole lot of Elgins. Parts for most of these watches are not hard to come by (yet). But you can expect costs of service to go up over time, if your watch needs parts. If it's kept clean and dry and is well cared for, it could never need parts other than the mainspring. Jeweled bearings with hard steel pivots will last just about indefinitely if no grit gets in there, and the lubrication is good.

Personally, I own a number of antique watches, many of which are "carryable" in that they run well and are not exceedingly rare, fragile or super valuable, and I know I can fix them if need be. I rotate these around. I also own modern watches, and I use those. For special occasions, I get out the more special watches. Or just because I feel like it.. I sometime use 2 or 3 watches in a single day. But I avoid using an antique on a rainy day, for example, and take other precautions too.

So it's just a matter of your tastes and opinions on the matter. Having a mechanical watch, that ticks, is
something I wouldn't want to give up. Sometimes I just wind them up and listen to them.

Elgin Grade 95

2011-12-26T10:34:00.000-08:00

The Elgin grade 95 is a 6 size, 7 jewel, watch.

This one, made about 1887, has a nice hunter case. Note that this movement is lever-set. The lever is shown extended near the seven.

Elgin Grade 291

2011-12-24T09:35:00.000-08:00

The grade 291 is a 16 size, 7 jewel movement. This one was made about 1932 and is an outstanding example of this classic.

A Fancy Elgin Grade 315

2011-12-24T09:27:00.000-08:00

The grade 215 is a 12 size, 15 jewel watch. Elgin made a lot of these, it was a popular watch.

This one, from about 1925, has a fancy dial in unusually good condition. These dials are almost always found chipped and cracked.

Elgin Grade 495

2011-12-24T09:18:00.000-08:00

The Elgin grade 495 is a 12 size, 17 jewels movement.

This one was made about 1933.

Vintage Elgin Watch Ads

2011-12-17T08:43:00.000-08:00

Here's an assortment of watch advertising from various eras.

From Elgin National Watch Co

The National House

2011-12-17T08:27:00.000-08:00

The National House and Gymnasium was built by the Elgin watch company in 1890. It was a multi-purpose employee rec center with a gym and ballroom. The building is long gone today.

From Elgin National Watch Co

Elgin American

2011-12-09T06:51:00.001-08:00

Elgin made a few different lines of pocketwatches under other names; Atlas and Sundial and a few others. These watches did not say "Elgin" anyplace on them. They seem, mostly, to be less finely finished versions of known Elgin models. Their serial numbers also seem to fall into line.

I was recently sent some pictures of what appears to be an 18 size, 7 jewel Elgin watch marked "American". To my knowledge there no record or other examples of this particular alternative brand.

The dial reads: "AMERICA", "PHILADELPHIA" and "USA".

Philadelphia? There's no relevant connection between the Elgin company and Philadelphia to my knowledge.

The watch's owner says it was purchased recently in Norway. Could Elgin have made this watch for the European market?

For now it remains a mystery.

The Elgin Watch Factory, 1869

2011-11-26T07:03:00.001-08:00

These illustrations are from a piece in Harper's Monthly, 1869, titled "Making Watches by Machinery."

From Elgin National Watch Co

Elgin Grade 240

2011-11-17T11:13:00.001-08:00

The Elgin grade 240 is a high-end model. It has many desirable features including the double-sunk rail-road style dial and lever-set mechanism.

18 size, 19 jewels...

This one has seen a little use, but the movement is in great shape.

This watch was made about 1908.

Note the dial repair above the 5 in this photo that also highlights the setting lever.

Making a Pallet Arbor

2011-11-15T16:52:00.001-08:00

An 18 size Waltham Tracy Appleton model had a broken pivot on the pallet arbor. The usual repair, other than replacing the part if possible, would be to re-pivot the arbor. This involves drilling a hole into the end and fitting a freshly made steel pivot in. I have never has much luck with that in hard steel, so in this case the thing to do was to make a whole new arbor.

After taking detailed dimensions of the original, we start with a rough outline cut out of a rod of hardened steel on the lathe, with a carbide graver.

When we get closer, and both pivot ends are roughly in place, the part is cut off the rod. Note that there is to be a slight taper to the arbor. It starts to show here.

Here's a tip... If you take a razor blade and place its edge against a fine file, and strike it with a hammer. It turns into a very fine saw.

The key is a very, very sharp graver, and to work very slowly.

Getting closer to the final dimensions we switch to an arkansas stone, and then to a jasper stone.

The final pivots are .2 mm in diameter (two tenths). This has to be exactly right. Too big and the part will bind in the jewels, too small and the extra side shake will disrupt the escapement.

The pivot are finally burnished with a steel burnisher, and polished to a mirror finish.

Here is the completed assembly. The pallet is friction fit (in the staking tool) so thus the slightly tapered shape of the arbor is critical. It can not be adjusted.

The pallet must fit with the right amount of snugness at exactly the right height so that the fork addresses the roller correctly on the balance end, and at the other end the escape wheel teeth come midway on the faces of the pallet jewels.

Finally, the new part in place, a well running watch.

Elgin Grade 96

2011-11-03T16:20:00.000-07:00

This is a nice example of the Elgin grade 96, an 18 size, 7 jewels model.

This one was made about 1897.

Here is shown some details of the lever-set mechanism. The watch is not set by pulling the crown out. There is a lever that is pulled out to put the works in setting mode. The crown then turns as usual.

Elgin Grade 309

2011-11-03T15:54:00.000-07:00

The Elgin grade 309 is an 18 size, 7 jewel watch. This example was made about 1909.

This style of case is called a "swing-out". The back is all one piece and the movement swings out on a hinged ring.

This is a hunter case movement, designed for a case that has a pop-open cover. Hunter movements have the seconds dial at 90 degrees from the stem. When they are used with an open-faced case and a normal dial, they are referred to as "side-winders" because the stem is at the 3:00 position. Now and then you see one like this with the seconds dial to the right so that the stem can be at 12:00 like a normal open-faced movement would be.

Mystery Photo

2011-11-03T09:21:00.000-07:00

I've been sent this photo by the pictured woman's son.

The woman is Dorothy Ringsud (Dorothy Polley at the time). She graduated from the Elgin Wathcmaker's College in 1941.

I'm asked if by any chance can anyone identify the man in this photo?

Another Factory Postcard

2011-11-03T07:25:00.000-07:00

Noon at Watch Factory, Elgin, Ill., 1910...

Dr. George Daniels

2011-10-22T08:33:00.000-07:00

Arguably one of the greatest watchmakers that has ever lived, has died at the age of 85.

George Daniels

1926-2011

Elgin Grade 210

2011-10-21T08:10:00.001-07:00

The grade 210 is a 16 size, 7 jewel hunter movement.

It's a bit unusual to see this style of Elgin logo on a 16 size watch. For whatever reason the style seen on this one is more common on smaller watches.

This example was made about 1900. It features a triple-hinges hunter case.

Elgin Grade 44

2011-10-21T07:57:00.000-07:00

The Elgin grade 44 is an 18 size watch available in 15 and 17 jewel variations.

This one is a named movement, G. M. Wheeler, made about 1895. Nice blued screws, all intact...

This watch features an unusual case.

The movement is held in a ring, like a swing-out case, but there is no hinge. Instead of swinging out the ring clips into the case body back.

I have seen a case something like this only once before, but it was not the same case. This one seems to be older and intended to be higher quality that that other one was. However without the usual case screws anyplace in the system that would secure the ring, a small about of "rattle" is inevitable.

Elgin Grade 626

2011-10-21T07:41:00.000-07:00

The Elgin grade 626 is a 21 jewel US made wristwatch movement.

Elgin Grade 336

2011-10-16T14:06:00.000-07:00

The grade 336 is an 18 size movement, 17 jewels.

This one was made about 1919. It features a very nice decorative case with initials subtly added.

Tweezers

2011-10-13T15:51:00.000-07:00

Here's my most commonly used tweezers. The top one is the 3C, used most the time by far.

The Elgin Observatory

2011-10-13T07:48:00.000-07:00

Elgin built an observatory in 1910 to measure time by the stars. The observatory included a a fixed telescope. An operator would observe the transit (meridian crossing) of stars. At the moment of the transit, the observer would press a button activating an electrical relay and setting two Riefler chronographs to exact time.

The chronographs were kept in a separate room which only two people were allowed to enter at a time in order to avoid temperature shifts. The room was heated to a constant 81 degrees by dozens of light bulbs all around the room. Each light bulb had an individual thermastat turning it on and off as needed to maintain temperature. To control air pressure, each chronograph was sealed in a glass enclosure connected to an apparatus allowing air to be pumped in or out as needed.

From Elgin National Watch Co

Using this facility, Elgin was able to accurately measure time to within hundredths of a seconds.

Elgin operated this system until 1958 when technology began providing better methods. Last I knew, the observatory structure still exists today at 312 Watch Street. It is owned by the city and operated by the Elgin school distict as the Elgin U-46 Planetarium.

Elgin National Watch Company Letterhead, 1933

2011-10-09T07:14:00.001-07:00

From Elgin National Watch Co

Details...

2011-10-07T10:44:00.000-07:00

This is a before and after showing redone black detailing in the decorative engravings on an upper plate. The watch is an 18 size Elgin pocketwatch made in the early 1930s.

I'll have to work out a way to take better photos of this sort of thing.

Elgin Grade 117

2011-10-06T12:05:00.000-07:00

The Elgin grade 117 is a 6 size, 7 jewel movement.

This one was made about 1896.

That Elgin Grade 478

2011-10-06T09:00:00.000-07:00

I have posted a photo or two of this watch already. It's an Elgin grade 478, 16 size, 21 jewel, B. W. Raymond model, made about 1926.

This watch had seen a lot of hard miles and needed about every repair and adjustment in the book, plus quite a few parts.

Elgin Watch Factory at Noon, 1920

2011-10-06T08:46:00.001-07:00

From Elgin National Watch Co

Vintage Pocketwatch Resources

2011-10-06T08:32:00.000-07:00

I am frequently asked about books and other resources useful in learning about pocketwatches, and vintages watches in general. There are several.

These three by by M. Cutmore provide a good deal of information on the history of watches as well as about their care and use.

Some Others:

Practical Watch Repairing by Donald de Carle is a reprint of a classic instructional book on watchmaking. So of it is dated, some but most techniques are basically the same today.

Also by de Carle:

For even more technical information, there's this one by master craftsman George Daniels.

This is not a definitive list, just a few I have seen. There are also many old and out of print books on watchmaking. Regularly checking used book stores and eBay will turn up a more.

Here are a few online resources:

Here's a few sources of watch material, specialty services, tools and supplies:

Wuischpard & Son, for case repair
Crystal Fit, for crystals
Dashto
Otto Frei
Dave's Watch Parts and Tools
Cas-Ker
Iinternational Dial, for dial refinishing

And Yet Another Factory View

2011-10-02T11:23:00.001-07:00

West and Front Wing, Elgin National Watch Co.

From Elgin National Watch Co

Women Watchmakers at Elgin, 1946

2011-10-01T10:38:00.000-07:00

From Elgin National Watch Co

The text associated with this photo reads as follows.

"Because women are patient, artistic and have a delicate touch, the Elgin National Watch Company is encouraging the employment of women workers in their factory here. Although the company's production force is predominately women, it relies on expert male watchmakers to do technical work on fine watches. If the present employment drive is successful, the company expects to step up its production schedule 1,000 units a day within three months. Elgin officials estimate that this could be increased to 2,000 watches daily within six months. The company attempts to maintain a normal ratio of 54 per cent women watchmakers. Officials point out that the added force of women would create 500 additional production jobs for men.
"Here Elinor Ridgell, of Waldo, Florida, student at the Elgin Watchmakers' College in this city, is shown at the jeweler's desk working on a wrist watch."

The photo is dates August 2, 1946.

2011-10-01T10:25:00.001-07:00

This a stack certificate for 100 shares of the Elgin National Watch Co, 1920.

From Elgin National Watch Co

Two More Elgin Factory Views

2011-09-30T09:26:00.000-07:00

Two more views of the Elgin watch factory at Elgin Illinois. These are both likely to be around 1910.

From Elgin National Watch Co

Elgin Advertising, 1930s

2011-09-30T06:52:00.001-07:00

This is post card advertising for the Elgin National Watch Co. This card is pre-addressed to a jeweler, and I assume Elgin watch dealer. The caption reads "My Elgin's all right".

From September 30, 2011

Another Image of The Elgin Factory

2011-09-29T07:24:00.001-07:00

From Elgin National Watch Co

Late Model Elgin Railroad Watches

2011-09-25T07:42:00.000-07:00

My information on later Elgin products is a bit fragmented. I'm not certain of the exact grade of this 16 size, 21 jewel, B.W. Raymond pocketwatch. Elgin made watches like this from the late '40s right up into the '60s. Many are marked with grades, this one is not. Watch serial numbers in this era typically begin with a letter, which is supposed to correspond to a number of millions, however I'm not sure this convention was rigorously adhered to.

Note the railroad style case typical of the '40s and '50s, and the dial logo Elgin used in the later years.

The Elgin National Watch Company went completely out of business in 1968.

Elgin Grade 234

2011-09-25T07:26:00.000-07:00

The grade 234 Elgin pocketwatch is a bit on the rare side. It is a 12 size watch, with 7 jewels.

This one was made about 1902. It features a distinctive gun metal grey case which is difficult to capture well in a photograph.

The case has been polished to brass on a thin raised ring just around the edge of the crystal, and also just on the edge of the slight tab used to open the back. Quite nice!

Another Elgin Grade 315

2011-09-25T07:14:00.000-07:00

This is a 12 size watch, 15 jewels, made about 1928. The grade 315 was one of Elgin's most successful products.

This example features a "cushion" case and a dial in unusually good condition for one of this type.

William Samelius

2011-09-23T09:13:00.000-07:00

William Samelius was one of the most significant watchmakers that we have ever seen, he was also my Grandfather's teacher. Samelius was referred to as The Dean of American Watchmakers, because he ran the Elgin Watch College for many years.

William Samelius took a special interest in my Grandfather because of his aptitude for watchmaking, and because of a funny story which I'll get to another time. But the point is that Samelius was a great teacher and made an impression on my Grandfather, Everett Sexton, that lasted a lifetime. My Grandfather would invoke the name of the master to make an impression on me. He would say when inspecting my work, for example, "Well I think you've done great, but Samelius would say you were too generous with the oil on the forth wheel."

When I learned how to do something, I was told how Samelius said to do it, from hand finishing the points of screwdrivers to lathe work. My Grandfather is gone now, but I feel very fortunate to have had this connection. Today, William Samelius is largely forgotten, even though he was once a household word.

I have lately exchanged some email with the decedents of the Samelius family. They have generously provided me with some information that I can put on line to inform about the master watchmaker. I'm not sure when I'll get to all that, but here are a couple of photos...

Lost Art?

2011-09-23T08:46:00.000-07:00

In the 1970s the local Coeur d'Alene, Idaho newspaper ran a series they called "Coeur d'Alene Has It" with the idea of highlighting local businesses one can find in town. In one edition of the series they featured my Grandfather, Everett Sexton, watchmaker and owner of Overjourde's Jewelers. That article read a lot like the one below, although for different reasons. The 1970s were dark times for watchmakers as mechanic watches seemed to be fading into history forever.

http://southpasadena.patch.com/articles/shop-local-the-lost-art-of-watchmaking

As an aside the jewelry store in Coeur d'Alene is still there. It is now Clark's Diamond Jewelry. It has been in business for more than 100 years. I highly recommend a visit if you are ever in that part of Idaho.

http://www.adiamondisfornow.com/

The Elgin Watch Factory, 1912

2011-09-23T08:25:00.001-07:00

From Elgin National Watch Co

More Elgin Images

2011-09-23T08:09:00.000-07:00

This is another photo made in the 1930s for Elgin advertising.

From Elgin National Watch Co

The Curtis Transportation Collection

2011-09-22T08:52:00.000-07:00

A friend and I had the opportunity yesterday to view the Curtis Transportation Collection, a large private collection of vintage vehicles and other items.

The Curtis family operates Curtis Trailers and RV in Portland and this unique collection, a lifetime in the making, is housed in a large building on the business property.

The collection includes a large variety of house drawn vehicles, vintage military equipment, fire engines, antique fire fighting gear, campers, vintage motor cycles and much more. Much of the collection is in as-found condition, and many may be the only surviving examples.

There's a great deal of history in these pieces, but the future of the collection is uncertain as the family deals with the passing of the senior family members that accumulated this remarkable private collection. A small handful of items are already singled out and accepted to go to other museums including the Smithsonian.

Thanks to the Curtis family for sharing this with us.

Many more photos here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/jsexton0/CurtisTransportationCollection?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Curtis Transportation Collection

Elgin Grade 311

2011-09-18T13:16:00.000-07:00

Here's an Elgin grade 311. It's a 12 size, 7 jewel, watch made about 1913.

This one has an interesting hand-paint emblem added to the dial, of unknown origin.

Elgin Watch School, 1939

2011-09-16T07:54:00.000-07:00

Here is the Elgin Watchmakers' College, class of 1939.

From Elgin National Watch Co

Watches on Google+

2011-09-15T12:14:00.000-07:00

I have been using Google+ to post photos and other information related to watches and watchmaking. The Google+ mobile application makes it quick and easy for me to post pictures while working.

If you'd like to follow along, and are not yet on Google+, send me your email address and I'll send you a Google+ invitation. It's easy!

https://plus.google.com/104405056094644812060/posts

Roskopf Watches

2011-09-10T10:27:00.000-07:00

Georges Frederic Roskopf created his watch designs in the 1860s. His aim was to create a good quality watch at a reasonable cost; something a working man could afford.

Most Roskopf watches, usually 18 size, include a couple interesting features. One is that there is no forth wheel, and thus no seconds hand. This simplifies the train a bit. The other is a "platform escapement" whereby the entire escapement is mounted on its own lower plate and is thus removable as a single unit, balance wheel, pallet and escape.

Although these watches are a bit obscure, the designs (and the name) where used by many imitators in the late 19th century.

Show here is a 16 size Roskopf watch in mint condition. It was never sold. It has a string with a lead tag around the neck, and a paper label still on the case back.

This watch, interestingly, does inded have a 4th wheel.

Also note the pin-set mechanism. There is a button to one side that is depressed to engage setting mode.

KM Watches

2011-09-10T06:47:00.000-07:00

I don't know how I was previously unaware of this, but KM Watches creates timepieces in Sisters Oregon. It's great looking work, and watches made in the US are a rare things.

http://www.kpmwatchcompany.com/_/Home_Page.html

The Space Traveller

2011-09-04T11:26:00.000-07:00

"London-based manufacturer of watch movements and timekeeping electronics, Hoptroff, today announced The Dickens, a new 7-motor quartz watch movement. The design was inspired by styling of The Space Traveller pocket watch, one of the most audacious creations by George Daniels, England’s greatest living watchmaker."

Read more here:
http://www.digitaljournal.com/pr/409823

Old Balance Bridge Repairs

2011-09-04T09:59:00.000-07:00

Most 18 size Elgin watches have a plate design where the balance wheel is outside the rest of the works, the rest being covered. We see this design called both "full plate" and "3/4 plate". At any rate, a balance bridge supports the upper pivots of the exposed balance wheel on these watches.

If the pivot does not move freely in the upper pivot, then the watch will not run well, particularly when laying face up. The causes can be a worn, damaged, or incorrect upper jewel, damage to the balance pivot, or a warped balance bridge.

One thing I see an a lot is a makeshift adjustment to the balance bridge, usually intended to make it sit slightly higher with the idea of giving the balance more freedom. The adjustment consisted of using a graver to make "digs" or burrs into the plate creating raised spots, under the bridge.

This repair can be tricky to deal with. In many cases fixing the original, actual, problem by, for example, replacing the jewel or staff, and then removing these raised spots leaves things in good shape. But many times I find that the bridge also appears to have been deformed slightly. The movement may have been dropped, landing on this part, or it may have been deliberately manipulated. Getting everything to line up again on this critical part is difficult.

This watch, a grade 336 Elgin pocketwatch, is a particularly troubled example.

In this case there are old burrs on both the plate and the underside of the bridge. Also they have both been undone with a file, and redone in the past.

The upper balance jewel on this watch was cracked and worn oblong. These burrs are likely old attempts to deal with that without replacing the bad parts.

As annoying as this is, it's just the nature of the old watches. When these watches were in use, they had to be repaired as best they could be, sometimes by their owners, or whomever was available, and with the tools at hand. Factory parts in those days could be rare and expensive, so they did what they could with what they had. It was also not unusual in the 19th century for people to carry watches that were off by 10 or 20 minutes a day, or worse. But they were better than sundials at least.

Personal Magnetism

2011-09-01T07:05:00.001-07:00

Are some people magnetic? Are there people that "can't" wear a mechanical watch? My Grandfather mentioned this persistent belief to me once. It was a popular idea in the 1930s during what was I guess wave of interests in the mysteries of magnetism, and the beginnings of the use of wristwatches among men. He didn't believe it, but he did have some problem customers...

http://nickhacko.blogspot.com/2011/09/q.html

A 6s Waltham

2011-08-20T07:34:00.000-07:00

Just a nice 6 size, 9 jewel Waltham movement...

Creative Hand Repairs

2011-08-19T12:01:00.000-07:00

This watch it seems, had a broken minute hand at some point. Here is the minute hand laying upside down on the dial after I removed it.

The minute hand is actually the broken body of the hand glued to some gold wrist watch hand.

Who knows what remains to be found inside this project...

Yet Another Creative Repair

2011-08-19T08:33:00.000-07:00

This Elgin grade 240 is an 18 size, 19 jewel watch made about 1910.

It features a great repair done no doubt many decades ago.

The pallet fork has been broken and repaired with a half-tube of brass used as a sort of splint. It is soldered in place.

In pretty rare cases, it is necessarily to bend the fork a bit. It's tricky to do, and to be avoided - it's usually the roller table that's incorrect anyway. But it seems in this case the watchmaker broke the fork, and had to repair it. It is actually a nice job. It is strong, straight, and the watch runs perfectly. I suppose the weight change cases a sight positional rate error, but I didn't detect it.

Elgin Serial Numbers Lookup

2011-08-19T08:14:00.000-07:00

I've had all sort of trouble keeping my serial number web page working right. Mostly because I've been too busy to spend much time on it... And because it depends on a dynamic DNS entry that has to be manually changed when my internet provider changes my IP address, or when I forget to renew it. Yes, it's all done on the cheap, but it's working again, for the moment...

URL: http://elgintime.dyndns-home.com:8080/elgintime/SnumLookup

Elgin Grade 451

2011-08-19T07:44:00.000-07:00

This is an Elgin grade 451, 12 size, 19 jewels.

This is a Lord Elgin model, made about 1926.

The Screw Department

2011-08-11T09:20:00.000-07:00

Here's another photo made for Elgin marketing purposes, in the late 1920s. This shows the screw department.

From Elgin National Watch Co

The caption reads:
MANUFACTURING 400,00 SCREWS PER DAY. The Screw Department. These automatic screw machines, designed and built by master craftsmen, are highly efficient. They make minute steel and brass screws for watches, with an average daily production of 400,000.

Elgin Grade 387

2011-08-06T14:14:00.000-07:00

This Elgin grade 387 is a 16 size, 17 jewel watch, made about 1919. It's a really solid watch.

More About Creative Fixes

2011-08-06T12:39:00.000-07:00

Long ago, although it seems counter-intuitive, factory parts for watches were often difficult to obtain and very frequently more expensive than hand-made replacements, and other... solutions. Today we see all sorts of interesting repairs in vintage watches, done long, long ago. Here's something I found in a watch just today.

What we see here is a mainspring barrel from a 16 size Elgin pocketwatch. The cap and the arbor have been removed. What do we have? There's a neatly folded wad of watch paper (a type of low-lint tissue paper) tucked in there just at the inside end of the mainspring where the spring hooks to the arbor.

Well this is a new one on me...

It appears that the mainspring is worn out and the watchmaker made a little paper pad to put in there that will press the end of the spring against the center so it would not relax and come unhooked. Ha! I think I'll replace the spring...

The Train Room

2011-08-06T08:20:00.000-07:00

Here's another photo from the Elgin watch factory. This one is captioned "The Train Room". It's from the later 1920s and was taken for The Watch Word magazine.

From Elgin National Watch Co

Another Elgin Grade 303

2011-08-04T07:10:00.000-07:00

The Elgin grade 303 is a 7 jewel, 12 size model. This one was made about 1928.

This was a very popular movement. Elgin sold an awful lot of them.

Elgin Grade 294

2011-08-04T07:04:00.000-07:00

Here's a 18 size Elgin grade 294 in a heavy swing out case.

7 jewels, made about 1909.

Another Elgin Photo

2011-08-04T06:49:00.000-07:00

Here's another photo from some Elgin National Watch Company promotional material from sometime in the late '20s or early '30s.

More here:

Elgin National Watch Co

On Google+

2011-07-23T08:32:00.001-07:00

Regular readers, now you can add me to your Circles on Google+

https://plus.google.com/104405056094644812060/posts

Pinion Cutters

2011-07-22T09:33:00.001-07:00

Here's another photo from the Elgin watch factory. The caption on this one reads "Pinion Cutters".
About 1930...

From Elgin National Watch Co

Mark Twain on the Cuckoo Clock

2011-07-21T16:23:00.000-07:00

"For years my pet aversion had been the cuckoo clock; now here I was, at last, right in the creature's home; so wherever I went that distressing "HOO'hoo! HOO'hoo! HOO'hoo!" was always in my ears. For a nervous man, this was a fine state of things. Some sounds are hatefuler than others, but no sound is quite so inane, and silly, and aggravating as the "HOO'hoo" of a cuckoo clock, I think. I bought one, and am carrying it home to a certain person; for I have always said that if the opportunity ever happened, I would do that man an ill turn. What I meant, was, that I would break one of his legs, or something of that sort; but in Lucerne I instantly saw that I could impair his mind. That would be more lasting, and more satisfactory every way. So I bought the cuckoo clock; and if I ever get home with it, he is "my meat," as they say in the mines."
-- Mark Twain

Another Elgin Factory Photo

2011-07-21T09:54:00.000-07:00

This is a photo made for promotional purposes at the Elgin factory. The date is not known but it should be about 1930 in light of where it was found and what it was with.

From Elgin National Watch Co

The Radium Room

2011-07-21T07:34:00.000-07:00

Here's a photo taken inside the Elgin watch factory, about 1930. The caption reads:

APPLYING "EVENING MAKE-UP" TO THE FACE OF A WATCH. The Radium Room. Radium occupies a department of its own, that people are not allowed to visit. The room is finished entirely in white enamel, well lighted, and the air is changed every seven minutes to keep it clean and fresh. Exhaust pipes which carry away all impurities can be seen in front of each girl. Only a small potion of radium is mixed at a time, and all stock is held in lead containers, as is the daily mixture. A common pen is used to place the radium on the hands and numerals of the dial. Each girl is provided with a smock, and compelled to leave it in the department. Every Precaution is taken so that no part of the radium reaches the operator.

From Elgin National Watch Co

Yours?

2011-07-20T07:03:00.000-07:00

I received a watch yesterday via UPS 2nd day air. There was no indentifying information inside, and the name on the return address does not match anything I have in emails.

Is this your watch? Please get a hold of me and let me know.

Thanks

UPDATE 7/21/11:
Watch identified, crisis averted.

A Nice Watchmaking Video

2011-07-17T07:41:00.001-07:00

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BuqnJJJYkWQ&feature=youtu.be

Great stuff... It sure would be nice to have that kind of shop equipment.

Elgin Grade 317

2011-07-15T08:06:00.000-07:00

This is a less common grade of the 18 size Elgin pocketwatches.

It's a 15 jewel movement, made about 1908.

The Elgin Watch Factory, 1910

2011-07-14T07:28:00.000-07:00

Here's a nice photo postcard showing the Elgin clock tower. This card is postmarked in 1910.

From Elgin National Watch Co

It's interesting how many women are in this photo - nearly every figure shown in fact. Elgin employed a great many women, a majority of the employees during certain eras.

Elgin Grade 301

2011-07-10T08:27:00.000-07:00

This Elgin grade 301 has an unusual case. It is ten-sided, but it is also threaded front and back and so the bezel and back cover are round.

This is a 12 size, 7 jewel watch, made about 1919.

Waltham 845

2011-07-10T08:03:00.000-07:00

This 1892 railroad Waltham provides a nice example of how lever-set watches are operated.

This is an 18 size, 21 jewel model 845.

Illinois Autocrat

2011-07-10T07:55:00.000-07:00

This is a 12 size, 17 jewel watch from the Illinois Watch Co. Autocrat model, made about 1928...

Google+

2011-07-10T06:41:00.000-07:00

I seem to be able to invite people to Google+. If any customers or other regular readers here would like to try out the new service from Google let me know. The invitations do function intermittently, so there's no guarantee.

More Vintage Watch Ads

2011-07-09T11:49:00.000-07:00

These are from 1948. Click to go to the Picasa album, enjoy.

ads48

Vintage Watch Ads

2011-07-09T11:07:00.000-07:00

Here's a few watch ads from a Swiss industry magazine, 1955. Click to see the whole album.

ads55

Elgin Watch Factory Photos

2011-07-09T10:25:00.000-07:00

I've posted an album of four photos from the estate of someone who worked at the Elgin factory in about 1910. One photo shows the staff from the repair room at a picnic. The others, I believe, are interior scenes of the National House, which was an employee recreational and dormitory building.

From Elgin National Watch Co

Find the whole album here:

Elgin National Watch Co

Elgin Grade 308

2011-07-04T08:16:00.000-07:00

The grade 308 is one of the more unusual ones. It is an 18 size, 17 jewel watch. This one was made about 1905. Note the scarce 24 hour dial.

Elgin Grade 354

2011-07-04T08:07:00.000-07:00

Here's another Elgin grade 354.

This is a 0 size, 15 jewel watch made about 1915. This example has an especially nice gold hunter case.

Elgin Veritas

2011-07-03T16:26:00.000-07:00

Here we have the watch whose wheels I posted a photo of a while ago. This is an Elgin 18 size, 23 jewel Veritas model, made about 1902.

One of the best...

Time and The Amondawa

2011-06-27T08:11:00.000-07:00

Image via Wikipedia"...a team of researchers from University of Portsmouth and Federal University of Rondonia claim that the Amondawa, a small Amazonian tribe, speak a language with a very uncommon conceptualization of time."

http://rosettaproject.org/blog/02011/may/27/telling-time-in-amondawa/

The tribe is claimed to have no words abstracting time into physical phenomenon or time periods, such as "year."

"Rather than having a time-space metaphor, the Amondawa conceptualization of time is based on “social activity, kinship and ecological regularity."

The very idea of a clock is the approximation of time as a mechanically controlled release of kinetic energy. If a culture truly had no concepts relating time to physical experience, could they ever invent a clock?

New Variations in Electric Clocks?

2011-06-27T06:52:00.000-07:00

Image via Wikipediahttp://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/43532031/ns/technology_and_science-innovation/

In between the purely mechanical era and quartz becoming common, clocks that based time on 60 cycle household current were very common.

"Since 1930, electric clocks have kept time based on the rate of the electrical current that powers them. If the current slips off its usual rate, clocks run a little fast or slow. Power companies now take steps to correct it and keep the frequency of the current — and the time — as precise as possible."

In fact, electric clocks can be more accurate than quartz timers. This type of clock still exists, but is much less common than it used to be. Increasingly, consumer devices get time from a cable or phone service, or via the internet.

Power companies are now expected to begin experimenting with reducing the corrections that currently keep the power system's frequency steady.

"wall clocks and those on ovens and coffeemakers — anything that flashes "12:00" when it loses power — may be just a bit off every second, and that error can grow with time."

Elgin Grade 454, Father Time

2011-06-23T17:01:00.000-07:00

This is a 16 size Elgin grade 454. It is a 21 jewel railroad grade watch made about 1921.

It is in a swing-out style case.

These movements were used for marine navigation right up into the 1960s.

"Just" Work

2011-06-17T08:36:00.000-07:00

Image via WikipediaServicing a watch is labor intensive and requires years of training and practice and an array of specialized tools. The majority of people that send me watches know this well. But the cost of watch service is sometimes a surprise to potential customers. I have been told it should cost $X where $X would not cover the cost of the oil.

Now and then a customer will say something like "This watch runs fine, it just needs Y," Y being anything from a mainspring, to a crystal, to a hand, to a time adjustment, a stem adjustment, or anything else. Watchmakers sometimes call this "just work," as in "just do this," and watchmakers typically don't do it.

There's good reason for this. For one thing, a watch may "run fine," but that's in the same way a car may "run fine" if it's oil is never changed. Yes, it will run fine. Until it doesn't.

Over at chadthewatchguy.com there's a nice set of photos showing just one of the reasons an old watch should get complete service at least once before beginning a new life as a family heirloom, and why any watch in regular use needs regular service. It's what happens when slight damage, too slight to directly impact time keeping, gets started. Debris, from anything, gets into pivots, stuck in the oil, and acts as an abrasive. In pretty short order, a part is ruined. Ruining a part on an antique is a real shame. It's one less spare part that exists in the world.

Check in out here:
http://www.chadthewatchguy.com/2011/06/15/our-new-section-ask-the-master-watchmaker/

When you hear someone say that a watch that hasn't been cleaned in decades "runs fine", or you're browsing eBay for old watches that "run", think of those pivots.

Elgin Veritas Wheels

2011-06-11T11:03:00.000-07:00

Here's the wheels of an Elgin Veritas, definitely one of the best American true railroad pocketwatches ever produced.

It's always nice to see one of these.

Jeff's ElginTime Watch Blog

Elgin Grade 479

Waltham Appleton

Elgin Grade 192

Elgin Grade 376, Veritas

Balance Vibrations

An Elgin Grade 294 and The Vibrating Arm

Elgin Grade 290

Elgin Grade 315

Elgin Grade 386

American Waltham for a Change

Another Elgin Factory Scene

Storage?

Character

12s, 16s, 18s, What Do Watch Sizes Mean?

Should You Carry an Antique Watch for Daily Use?

Elgin Grade 95

Elgin Grade 291

A Fancy Elgin Grade 315

Elgin Grade 495

Vintage Elgin Watch Ads

The National House

Elgin American

The Elgin Watch Factory, 1869

Elgin Grade 240

Making a Pallet Arbor

Elgin Grade 96

Elgin Grade 309

Mystery Photo

Another Factory Postcard

Dr. George Daniels

Elgin Grade 210

Elgin Grade 44

Elgin Grade 626

Elgin Grade 336

Tweezers

The Elgin Observatory

Elgin National Watch Company Letterhead, 1933

Details...

Elgin Grade 117

That Elgin Grade 478

Elgin Watch Factory at Noon, 1920

Vintage Pocketwatch Resources

And Yet Another Factory View

Women Watchmakers at Elgin, 1946

Shares

Two More Elgin Factory Views

Elgin Advertising, 1930s

Another Image of The Elgin Factory

Late Model Elgin Railroad Watches

Elgin Grade 234

Another Elgin Grade 315

William Samelius

Lost Art?

The Elgin Watch Factory, 1912

More Elgin Images

The Curtis Transportation Collection

Elgin Grade 311

Elgin Watch School, 1939

Watches on Google+

Roskopf Watches

KM Watches

The Space Traveller

Old Balance Bridge Repairs

Personal Magnetism

A 6s Waltham

Creative Hand Repairs

Yet Another Creative Repair

Elgin Serial Numbers Lookup

Elgin Grade 451

The Screw Department

Elgin Grade 387

More About Creative Fixes

The Train Room

Another Elgin Grade 303

Elgin Grade 294

Another Elgin Photo

On Google+

Pinion Cutters

Mark Twain on the Cuckoo Clock